Cowboy Boot Styles

The cowboy boot’s traditional shape, that is, a longish toe and under-the – knee length, can be attributed to several influences. The Wellington boot sprung from utilitarian footwear made for practical use in a horse-ridden and battle-infested nineteenth century England. This explains the boot’s original state as fairly simple and practical, made in plain black or brown leather, with a small blunt heel, and cut below the knee for comfort. The common V-cut at the head of the boot probably comes from the Hessian boot, popular among cowboys and originating from the Hessian soldiers, as mentioned above.

During the 1860s and '70s, these various military-style boots continued to be copied in a myriad of variations, modified and sometimes improved upon by the southerners migrating to Texas. Their skills resulted in a higher heel, and finely cured leathers. During these times, heel shapes and boot heights varied greatly. Toes were round or square duck-bill shaped, and could reach a width of three inches.

The style-variation in cowboy boots is one of their most interesting elements. There is no limit to the differences in heel height and width, detailing, stitching, and other such features. From the early twentieth century, or even as far back as late eighteenth, cowboys modified and varied the boot’s design, accounting for the huge array of styles available today. Heels range from low to high, toes come in varying widths in both square and round shapes. Some soles are thick, while others are thin, and the tops can be either plain or decorated with coloured leather and stitching. These changes have historically been made to satisfy the individual's vanity, a boot maker's fancy, or to improve safety and efficiency. In more recent times boots have been made in colours far removed from the conservative browns and blacks, and include pure white, pale blue, and deep purples and reds.

One significant decorative feature is the toe wrinkle. In 1903, the Hyer Brothers catalogue was the first to advertise toe wrinkles—the straight stitch lines across the top of the toe. By about 1915, most boot makers were offering their own toe bug, wrinkle, or flower.

The Cowboy Boot Book, released in 1992 and every boot aficionado’s bible, is a detailed source of information and visual images of the cowboy boot and its many variations. Its immensely positive influence on the boot industry sent customers hurtling toward their favourite boot-makers requesting boots inspired by designs featured in the book.

The most popular variant of cowboy boot is the "Roper". This style was first marketed around 50 years ago as the "Ranch Wellington." It is fairly flat with little arch-support, the shaft is shorter (10"; midway up the shin), toes are rounded, and the heel low and straight. These are the cowboy equivalent of trainers, designed for jumping on and off horses to catch cattle.

Another variation of the cowboy boot is the "packer". These are like high military boots, with laces, and are intended for use when a lot more walking (like leading) may be required. Because of the quality of the leather that is usually used, and the fact that they are often made with plastic soles without welts, do not expect that they will last as long as a traditional boot.

Lacer cowboy boots have the traditional form of the cowboy boot but are not slip on. Instead they lace up to the tip, hence the model’s name.

Work boots are cowboy boots that are made very with tough leather, and are often referred to as ranch boots, too. They are not ornamental and are designed for working in. Their strong construction, especially at the joins, ensure their durability. They can be lace-up yet are usually slip on/pull on.

Wellington cowboy boots are in line with the traditional cowboy boot style; with a low heel, and semi rounded, semi pointed point toe.

A term you may come across is Napa Suede Leather, also known as 'Roughout' leather, a type of brushed suede that maintains a softness yet durability. Roughout boots usually have fairly rounded toes.

Cowboy Boots are an American icon but have there roots in Britain and Germany. Read more about the history of cowboy boots here.

What's a roper, packer or a lacer? Learn all about the different styles of cowboy boots here.

What are your cowboy boots made of? Is it leather, alligator or even exotic ostrich? Regardless of the type of material, read more about how to care for your cowboy boots

Not sure what you are looking for in a cowboy boot? Click here for tips on buying cowboy boots.

Read about Rex Beerbot here!